Intrepid Chef Investigates ‘Ethical Foie Gras’
Submitted by Editor on Fri, 04/11/2008 - 9:37am.
Tracy Sutton
Northern Editor
BINGHAMTON, N.Y. — New York chef, Dan Barber, entertaining attendees here recently at “Grasstravaganza,” a conference of pasture-grazing farmers, related the story of his recent trip to Spain to seek out the creator of an ethical foie gras.
Foie gras, a goose liver paté delicacy best beloved in France, is infamous for its method of force feeding geese feed through a tube to engorge their livers. Consumption of foie gras is, in fact, banned in several places citing this as cruelty. Last year, the award for best foie gras, the Coup de Coeur by the Paris International Food Salon went not to a Frenchman, but to a Spaniard, Eduardo Sousa who does not force feed his geese.
This event cause quite a stir in France.
Quoted in the London Times, Marie-Pierre Pée, secretary-general of the French Professional Committee of Foie Gras Producers, condemned Sousa’s version: “This cannot be called foie gras because it is strictly defined as a product from an animal which has been fattened,” he said.
Sousa is quoted as rejoining:
“We have won a prize in Paris where the jury has given (the French) a clip round the ears because we have shown that you can make a good foie gras without mistreating the animals.”
Intrigued, New York chef Dan Barber went to the Extremadura region of Spain to investigate.
“I had a transformative experience,” reported Barber.
Barber, speaking to a room of 300+ grass-grazing enthusiasts, said Sousa is a “rotational grazer of geese.” He does not force feed, but rather lets the 1,000 geese roam his acreage noshing on grass, acorns, olives, and figs according to the season.
When Barber mentioned to Sousa (through a translator) that he might find it more profitable to sell the olives and figs versus the geese, Sousa regarded the suggestion as a crass American insult. Obviously, his job is to keep the geese happy. What they don’t eat, he can sell.
Keeping the geese happy (before, it must be noted, eventually slaughtering them for their livers) is the driving theme of this Spaniard’s arcane brand of farming.
Several times, Barber noted, while he was speaking to Sousa he was asked to keep his voice down “so as not to upset the geese.”
Most amazing, was while they were conversing on Sousa’s farm, a flock of wild geese alighted as if on cue. “Are they stopping by on their way to migrate south?” asked Barber. “No they stay,” replied Sousa. “Why would they go further? I give them all they want.”
The biggest problem with conventional foie gras, said Barber, is it demands yellow fat. Conventional methods of production include adding dye to the feed, yet Sousa does not feed corn to his geese. He’s found a wild plant, a weed that the geese seem to find exceptionally tasty, which turns the fat yellow.
Barber says Sousa adds nothing to the foie gras. The “landscape gives it all the taste.”
“The whole world says it’s impossible to do this naturally, but he’s proving them wrong.”
And the taste?
“I had the best foie gras of my life,” said Barber. (Which is something coming from a guy who in 2006 was voted “Best Chef in New York City.”)
“He spoiled me for foie gras. I can’t eat other foie gras, because it isn’t that foie gras.”
Barber went so far as to emote, “It was the best culinary experience of my life.”
Owning restaurants, Barber approached Sousa about selling his foie gras to chefs. Sousa replied, “Chefs don’t deserve this.” They would take credit.
Sousa considers himself to be a man who is using his land thoughtfully, trying to ensure that his geese are well-fed and happy, that’s all. The fact that this natural, “ethical” brand of foie gras just happens to be mind-blowingly delicious?
“It’s God’s work.”
Tracy Sutton
Northern Editor
BINGHAMTON, N.Y. — New York chef, Dan Barber, entertaining attendees here recently at “Grasstravaganza,” a conference of pasture-grazing farmers, related the story of his recent trip to Spain to seek out the creator of an ethical foie gras.
Foie gras, a goose liver paté delicacy best beloved in France, is infamous for its method of force feeding geese feed through a tube to engorge their livers. Consumption of foie gras is, in fact, banned in several places citing this as cruelty. Last year, the award for best foie gras, the Coup de Coeur by the Paris International Food Salon went not to a Frenchman, but to a Spaniard, Eduardo Sousa who does not force feed his geese.
This event cause quite a stir in France.
Quoted in the London Times, Marie-Pierre Pée, secretary-general of the French Professional Committee of Foie Gras Producers, condemned Sousa’s version: “This cannot be called foie gras because it is strictly defined as a product from an animal which has been fattened,” he said.
Sousa is quoted as rejoining:
“We have won a prize in Paris where the jury has given (the French) a clip round the ears because we have shown that you can make a good foie gras without mistreating the animals.”
Intrigued, New York chef Dan Barber went to the Extremadura region of Spain to investigate.
“I had a transformative experience,” reported Barber.
Barber, speaking to a room of 300+ grass-grazing enthusiasts, said Sousa is a “rotational grazer of geese.” He does not force feed, but rather lets the 1,000 geese roam his acreage noshing on grass, acorns, olives, and figs according to the season.
When Barber mentioned to Sousa (through a translator) that he might find it more profitable to sell the olives and figs versus the geese, Sousa regarded the suggestion as a crass American insult. Obviously, his job is to keep the geese happy. What they don’t eat, he can sell.
Keeping the geese happy (before, it must be noted, eventually slaughtering them for their livers) is the driving theme of this Spaniard’s arcane brand of farming.
Several times, Barber noted, while he was speaking to Sousa he was asked to keep his voice down “so as not to upset the geese.”
Most amazing, was while they were conversing on Sousa’s farm, a flock of wild geese alighted as if on cue. “Are they stopping by on their way to migrate south?” asked Barber. “No they stay,” replied Sousa. “Why would they go further? I give them all they want.”
The biggest problem with conventional foie gras, said Barber, is it demands yellow fat. Conventional methods of production include adding dye to the feed, yet Sousa does not feed corn to his geese. He’s found a wild plant, a weed that the geese seem to find exceptionally tasty, which turns the fat yellow.
Barber says Sousa adds nothing to the foie gras. The “landscape gives it all the taste.”
“The whole world says it’s impossible to do this naturally, but he’s proving them wrong.”
And the taste?
“I had the best foie gras of my life,” said Barber. (Which is something coming from a guy who in 2006 was voted “Best Chef in New York City.”)
“He spoiled me for foie gras. I can’t eat other foie gras, because it isn’t that foie gras.”
Barber went so far as to emote, “It was the best culinary experience of my life.”
Owning restaurants, Barber approached Sousa about selling his foie gras to chefs. Sousa replied, “Chefs don’t deserve this.” They would take credit.
Sousa considers himself to be a man who is using his land thoughtfully, trying to ensure that his geese are well-fed and happy, that’s all. The fact that this natural, “ethical” brand of foie gras just happens to be mind-blowingly delicious?
“It’s God’s work.”
